Everything you need to know about living, working or studying in Ottawa

The mere mention of planning a Working Holiday adventure in Canada usually prompts people to ask where you’re planning to settle. “Toronto?” “Vancouver?” “Montreal?”—it’s as if there were only three options available in the entire country!

But how about Ottawa, Canada’s national capital? It’s not the largest city (that would be Toronto), it’s not the gateway to the Pacific and Asia (hello, Vancouver!) and it’s not the heart of French Canada (Quebec is next door) but it has a lot to offer. 

Picture-perfect Ottawa is often considered a family-friendly city, so it might be a tempting option if you’re coming to Canada with young children. There are also interesting job opportunities in NGOs, tech companies and post-secondary education. Oh, and you can learn or practise French too!

Here is the full guide if you want to settle in Ottawa or explore it during your stay in Canada.

Ottawa at a glance

Ottawa is located in Ontario, on the south shore of the Ottawa River, the chief tributary of the St. Lawrence River. It is bordered by the province of Quebec. It’s about 200 kilometres from Montreal and 450 kilometres north of Toronto. The State of New York (USA) is only a forty-five-minute drive from Ottawa.

• Population: 1,017,449 (2021 census)
• Area: 2,788.2 km2
• Population density: 364.9/km2 
• Climate: continental, with an average of 20 °C in summer and -10 °C in winter (extreme weather events are common enough with lots of snow and ice in winter, high humidex and powerful storms in summer).
• Foundation: 1800 (many historic tourist attractions, including the Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Like all major Canadian cities, Ottawa is a welcoming place where you will meet people from all over the world and from all walks of life.

Do people speak English or French in Ottawa?

Bilingualism became the official policy at the municipal level in 2002 and a common customer service greeting around here is “hello, bonjour!”

Technically, signs, communications and services are offered in both English and French but day to day you’ll hear way more English than French. Indeed, 60% of the population identify English as their mother tongue. 

French is mostly spoken across the river, in Gatineau (Quebec), although 14.2% of Ottawa residents call French their mother tongue.  

On top of Canada’s two official languages, you will hear Arabic, Spanish, Chinese, Somali and Persian. Ottawa is a multicultural city with vibrant ethnic communities from all continents.

What’s the atmosphere like?

Ottawa is a pretty place with nature havens all over the city—there’s the huge Experimental Farm in the middle of the city, large parks and gardens, and several sandy public beaches on the shores of the Ottawa and Rideau rivers. The 19th-century Rideau Canal is a testament to Ottawa’s military history and the waterway uses operational manual locks to this day. The 202-kilometre-long route runs from Kingston to Ottawa. This historic site is full of boats in summer and a long stretch in Ottawa becomes the longest skating rink in the world in winter.

With so many natural wonders all over the city, it’s no wonder that Ottawa is the perfect playground for all kinds of outdoor activities, from cycling to cross-country skiing, from hiking to ice skating. 

The urban side of Ottawa is equally interesting with neighbourhoods like Little Italy or Chinatown, and many historic buildings such as the Parliament and Château Laurier. The downtown core is home to several yearly festivals and events that showcase jazz music, tulips, ice sculptures… or poutine.

Cold, rainy day? There’s no shortage of museums to explore! The two main universities and a strong network of public libraries also host events of all kinds. 

Even though Ottawa isn’t as lively as Montreal after dark, there’s still a party scene with friendly bars and clubs, especially around the Byward Market, Elgin Street and Preston Street. The city is overall very safe—it has the lowest rate of violent crime among Canada’s six largest cities over the past decade.

The best way to get to know Ottawa is to spend time exploring the different areas and sides of the city to discover its many hidden gems. It’s a low-key city but it offers an overall great quality of life.

For more insights about daily life in Ottawa from an immigrant perspective, read Life in Ottawa, a series of articles from Zhu who blogs about local events, cultural differences and unique Ottawa moments.

Getting there and getting around

The Ottawa International Airport

Surprisingly, there are relatively few direct flights to Canada’s national capital from Europe, Asia or Latin America. Most airlines, including Air Canada, connect through Montreal or Toronto, the biggest hub in Eastern Canada. 

Air Transat is an interesting low-cost option with many flights to and from Europe. You can get great deals, especially during the low season (November to June).

Keep in mind that Montreal’s Trudeau Airport is only a two-hour ride from Ottawa and that several bus companies can take you there for CA$50-75. If you find a cheap ticket to Montreal, buy it; Ottawa isn’t far! 

The Ottawa International Airport (“YOW”) is located roughly ten kilometres from downtown. It’s a fairly small airport, especially compared to Montreal and Toronto.

All taxis are metered and a ride to downtown is around CA$30-50. The main companies are BlueLine and Capital Taxi. 

Ridesharing services are allowed at the airport. The pickup location is at pillars 12 and 13.

OC Transpo, Ottawa’s public transportation service, offers a connection to downtown. The 30-minute ride is CA$3.85 (the regular ticket price) and you can pay on board, exact change only. Take the #97 bus, which runs every 20-30 minutes from 4:07 a.m. to 3:37 a.m. 

Picking up a rental car at the airport is another option. Don’t miss pvtistes deals with Hertz, Dollar and Thrifty—all members are eligible regardless of their status in Canada.

Long-distance buses 

Greyhound, the iconic long-distance bus company and a long-time leader in North America, shut down permanently in Canada during the pandemic. It was bought by Flixbus, a German company offering low-cost bus services to and from 16 Canadian cities. 

Gray Line is a good option for exploring the National Capital Region (i.e. Ottawa and Gatineau) with guided city tours, themed tours and a hop-on hop-off service. 

VIA Rail trains 

Taking the train in Canada is usually not faster or cheaper but it’s a classic experience and another way to discover the country. Just don’t expect state-of-the-art high-speed trains, the atmosphere is more Orient Express than Japanese bullet trains.

VIA Rail is Canada’s only rail service company. Ottawa is a stop on the Quebec City-Windsor route that runs through Quebec and Ontario—this could be the start of an epic train trip through the country or to amazing cities like Montreal and Toronto!

Getting around in Ottawa

Keep in mind that Ottawa is very spread out and that it gets extremely cold in winter. You will probably need to rely on several transportation options to get around.

Public transportation

If you’re taking a bus or the light-rail train, you’ll use OC Transpo, Ottawa’s public transportation company. It operates different types of services:

• A regular bus network: 199 routes served by a fleet of more than 850 buses, all of them accessible to wheelchairs and strollers.
• The Transitway: a rapid transit network with bus-only roadways and dedicated lanes on 11 routes (perfect for rush hour!).
• Para Transpo: minibuses providing a door-to-door transportation service for people with permanent or short-term disabilities.
• The O-Train: a two-line light metro transit system (don’t get any local started on it, it’s… ahem, a work in progress!).

OC Transpo offers per-ride fares (CA$3.85 for cash payment, exact change only). Most regular users load money onto a Presto card for convenience and a slightly cheaper fare (CA$3.80). Day passes are also available (CA$11.75) as well as weekly passes (CA$54.25) and everything in between, including multiday and family passes. A monthly pass will set you back CA$128.75.

If you’re going across the river to Gatineau (Quebec), you will need to take the STO (Société de transport de l’Outaouais) buses. The two services connect and a valid transfer can be used to jump from an OC Transpo bus to an STO bus and vice versa.

Note that buses are often your best option if you need to get somewhere during a snowstorm. On snow days, buses may operate on a reduced schedule and delays are often expected but surprisingly enough, they do run and they are designed to withstand winter conditions (the same can’t be said for the O-Train, which often shuts down due to weather). If you have a car, consider taking the bus instead of driving, especially if you’re not used to driving in the snow.

Cycling or walking

Ottawa is relatively bike-friendly with 200 km of multi-use pathways, stretching from Gatineau Park, through downtown and into the Greenbelt. Check out the official cycling map for Ottawa-Gatineau for more details. 

Outside the designated pathways, cycling becomes more dangerous. Don’t forget that drivers can turn right on a red light after coming to a complete stop if the way is clear of traffic—many drivers tend to turn too fast and don’t pay attention to pedestrians or cyclists.

The downtown core, Chinatown, Little Italy, Westboro and a few other neighbourhoods are very walkable with sidewalks and pedestrian crossings. You can even walk across the Alexandra Bridge to Gatineau. However, many places in Ottawa aren’t very pedestrian-friendly—narrow or non-existent sidewalks, a lot of traffic, dangerous crossings, etc. As in many other North American cities, Ottawa is working on developing plans to move people around safely and find alternatives to cars.

Driving in Ottawa

Ontario driver’s licence

Depending on your citizenship, you may have to show an International Driving Permit (IDP) along with your foreign licence or exchange your home licence for an Ontario driver’s licence if you’re buying a car. If buying a car, don’t forget to get auto insurance as well. Pvtistes.net has a great deal with YouSet to help you find the best price on your car insurance.

If you will need an IDP you must get this document before coming to Canada, as Ontario doesn’t issue the IDP. Don’t have an IDP? Ontario has licence exchange agreements with certain provinces, states, and countries—check the full list and requirement details here.

You can use your foreign licence if you’re staying in Ontario for up to three months—car rental companies will accept it. For longer stays, start the driver’s licence exchange process. 

Traffic rules, parking bylaws and more

Even as an experienced driver with a valid foreign licence, you may want to take a moment to review Ontario traffic rules and road safety in general. The Official Ministry of Transportation (MTO) Driver’s Handbook covers everything you need to know. For instance, you should be aware that school bus safety is taken very seriously—drivers travelling in both directions must stop for a stopped school bus with its red lights flashing or else you will be issued a hefty fine.

The City of Ottawa offers up-to-date information on parking, roads and travel. Pay attention to winter parking bans and review general parking regulations carefully.

It takes time to get used to driving in the snow. Get to know your vehicle and local conditions!

Rush hour in Ottawa tends to be around 8 or 9 a.m. and 4 or 5 p.m. since many civil servants work 9-5 jobs. The pandemic and tentative work-from-home agreements changed the game a bit but you can still expect slower traffic from Quebec to Ottawa in the morning and from Ottawa to Quebec in the afternoon. You will also probably hear the following joke: “There are two seasons in Canada, winter and construction.” Indeed, as soon as the snow has melted, you can be sure that some lanes somewhere will be closed to traffic because of construction!

Buying a car

You will find second-hand car offers on classified websites like Kijiji and Craiglist. Try to enlist expert help if you don’t know much about cars, it’s easy to get scammed!

The next two steps will be registering and insuring your vehicle. Remember to compare car insurance coverages and companies. Get several quotes and read the fine print!

For a comprehensive overview of the whole process with tips and advice, read Buying a car in Canada.

Renting a car

Carsharing companies such as Communauto are a great alternative to the traditional car rental business, and rates are often cheaper too.

All the main companies like Avis, Hertz, Dollar, and Budget have offices in Ottawa. Get quotes as rates vary greatly, and don’t forget to read the fine print to see what’s included.

Pvtistes offers discounts and perks if you rent a vehicle with Hertz—check them out before making a decision!

Tackling your to-do list to get started in Ottawa

Money matters

As you probably know, you will need money to survive. Your first goal should be to access your foreign funds and find a way—cash or card—to pay in Canadian dollars.

At first, you may want to exchange foreign currency and get Canadian dollars. There are several currency exchange services in Ottawa—check the rates and compare the fees.

You will almost always be able to use Canadian ATMs to withdraw money from your foreign bank account. Look for ATMs with the Visa Plus or MasterCard symbol. You may want to check if your foreign bank has partnerships with Canadian banks. If so, the service fee may be waived. 

Relying on your foreign bank has two main downsides—you can quickly reach the cash withdrawal limits and you will get hit by several fees.

Most study or permit holders will find it easier to open a bank account in Canada and get a Canadian debit card for everyday purchases. This is especially valuable considering many places went cashless during the pandemic. Transferring your foreign funds to your new Canadian bank account is relatively straightforward. Check out Wise, where the first international money transfer is free of charge for pvtistes members!

It’s always a good idea to stop by your home branch before your trip to Canada. You can review your options, fees, potential offers and partnerships with Canadian banks; plus you should let your bank know you will be travelling to avoid any “suspicious activity” red flag on your account.

Applying for a SIN

Getting your Canadian Social Insurance Number is a mandatory step before starting your job hunt. All employers will ask for it within three days of your start date. 

The process is very straightforward. Find a Service Canada office and bring the required documents. You will be issued a SIN on the spot.

Remember that a SIN can be used to apply for benefits and services from government programs but you’re not eligible as an IEC or study permit holder. Most importantly, you’re not covered by OHIP, the Ontario health insurance program, which is why it’s so important to buy proper travel insurance coverage for the entire duration of your stay in Canada. 

Citizen registration with your local embassy or consulate

Many countries encourage their citizens to register with the local embassy or consulate abroad. This is a free service that can come in handy in case of emergency, at home or in Canada. 

Ottawa is home to tons of embassies. Check whether you need to show up in person or complete the process online.

Overview of Ottawa’s main neighbourhoods

The National Capital Region (NCR) covers a large area and two provinces. So first, you will have to decide whether you want to live in Quebec or Ontario.

In Gatineau (Quebec)

Five cities (Aylmer, Buckingham, Hull, Masson-Angers and Gatineau) merged to form Gatineau, the fourth-largest city in Quebec with a population of almost 300,000.

Gatineau is only a thirty-minute drive from downtown Ottawa, so many civil servants live in Quebec but work in Ontario. This is particularly true for families who are looking for better-subsidised daycare options, an education in French and more affordable real estate in Quebec. 

Gatineau could be described as a “commuter town”—it’s not the liveliest place to stay if you’re single, if you don’t have a car or if you like to go out a lot but it can be a cheaper alternative to Ottawa.

The former city of Hull is now a neighbourhood of Gatineau. This is the historic part of town with a lively business district. It has numerous pedestrian-friendly streets, pubs, restaurants and more. The further from Hull, the cheaper the rent. 

Buckingham is mostly a residential neighbourhood. It’s further from downtown Ottawa (a 40-minute drive) but closer to Westboro, Alta Vista and Overbrook on the Ontario side.

In Ottawa (Ontario)

Orléans
At the east end of the city, Orleans is Ottawa’s French corner with many French-speaking residents, especially Franco-Ontarians.  

Little Italy

Little Italy is between Dow’s Lake and Lebreton Flats—just follow Preston Street; you can’t miss it. Hint, you’ll find a “Little Italy” sign plus dozens of Italian restaurants, eateries and delis. This is a very walkable neighbourhood with old one-storey houses and fancy new condos.

Downtown

The downtown core is split between the business district from Bank Street to Elgin Street and the historic area around the Byward Market. Downtown Ottawa is home to dozens of landmarks and famous buildings, including Parliament Hill, the Rideau Canal, Château Laurier and more.

Byward Market

The Byward Market is one of Ottawa’s liveliest neighbourhoods with delis, restaurants, pubs, small businesses, buskers and the big Rideau shopping mall next door. It’s a great place to stroll around in the daytime and offers many entertainment options after sunset. 

The Glebe

Bustling and seemingly endless Bank Street crosses this lively, popular neighbourhood with plenty of quieter residential side streets. Despite (or maybe because of) a very hip and relaxed atmosphere, it’s an expensive area with lovely detached houses and two-storey buildings.

Check out this photo group documenting the Glebe.

The yearly Glebe garage sale attracts quite a crowd. This is the most popular event of this type in Ottawa.

Centretown

Much like in the Glebe, businesses line Bank Street and Elgin Street, with condos and older houses in side streets such as MacLaren and Gladstone. 

Chinatown

Ottawa’s Chinatown is smaller than in Vancouver or Toronto but Somerset Street still offers an interesting mix of Chinese, Vietnamese and South-East Asian culture with many restaurants, grocery stores and themed events.

Neighbourhoods to avoid

Although Ottawa is a very safe city by Canadian and world standards, Vanier is often mentioned as a rougher area. This neighbourhood has the second-highest crime rate in Ottawa but it’s also a vibrant community with some of the most affordable rentals in the city.

Short—and long-term accommodation solutions

Since it’s always best to avoid signing a lease from abroad, you may want to find a place to stay for a few days or a few weeks while looking for a more permanent option.

There are several hostels, including the famous “Jail Hostel” housed in a former jail. Check out availabilities and rates on websites like Hostelworld. 

Both Airbnb and Booking list apartments, rooms and houses in various Ottawa neighbourhoods. If you’re new to Airbnb, you can use this link (or any referral link) to get a discount on your first booking.

Hotels won’t be a cheaper solution; rates tend to be high in Ottawa because they are typically booked for business travel. 

Check out Finding accommodation in Canada and How expensive is life in Canada for more tips and information.

Working in Ottawa

The federal government is the main employer in Ottawa, followed by tech companies, health care and education. 

The article Finding a job and working in Canada is a good place to start for a complete overview of the process, Canadian style. You may want to check out Best job search websites to get started.

Volunteering is a great option to gain your first work experience in Canada (and references!), ease into the culture and meet like-minded people. Ottawa is home to a strong network of organisations dedicated to making a difference in the world, in communities and people’s lives. Websites like Charity Village list all kinds of opportunities (paid or not) with non-profit organisations. 

Culture, entertainment and tourism in Ottawa

Eating and drinking

Like many cities in this multicultural country, Ottawa offers a wide variety of authentic food from all over the world.

Little Italy does pizza, pasta and everything in between just right, while Chinatown can introduce you to fantastic Cantonese dim sum or Vietnamese phở. The Byward Market and Elgin Street are usually the place to go for a pub crawl but there are gems all over the city.

Keep in mind that tipping is socially mandatory in Canada!

Sports and outdoor activities

Professional teams

Ottawa is home to two North American major professional leagues: the Ottawa Senators (NHL) and the Ottawa RedBlack (CFL). You can watch ice hockey games at the Canadian Tire Centre in Kanata and Canadian football at TD Place Stadium. Ticket prices vary widely but both teams play many, many games over the season, so you could score a good deal.

Curling is popular in Ottawa—several associations can introduce you to this unique sport. Otherwise, you can also turn to roller derby, baseball, soccer, lacrosse and many more sports practising all over the city. Your Working Holiday adventure is a great opportunity to discover new sports!

Outdoor activities

Ottawa is the perfect playground for outdoor activities with many trails and parks.

If you want to try ice skating, you’re in the right place! Practise on the Rideau Canada or in one of the many free outdoor rinks all over the city.

Hockey Day is celebrated in the dead of the winter with grassroots and national events—it doesn’t get more Canadian than that…

Gatineau Park is a great place for cross-country skiing. For decent slopes, the closest resort is Mont Tremblant, in Quebec.

In summer, make the most of the many parks to go hiking, cycling, canoeing, camping and more. 

Facebook groups are a great resource to join local sports teams. Community centres can also connect you to the right people. 

Arts and culture

Museums

Ottawa is home to seven national museums including:

• The Canadian Museum of Nature
• The Canada Science and Technology Museum
• The Canada Aviation and Space Museum
• The Canadian War Museum
• The National Gallery of Canada
• The Canadian Agriculture and Food Museum
• The Canadian Museum of History (across the river, in Quebec)

There’s also the Ottawa Art Gallery, the Bank of Canada Museum and several national historic sites.

 Admission is generally free on Thursdays from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. or during the last opening hour of the day, as well as during special days like Family Day. Check the websites for details.

Public libraries

Ottawa boasts a strong network of public libraries with their main branch on Metcalfe Street and branches all over the cities.

Each library offers access to a WiFi network, tons of books in different languages, a community ad board, training material for certifications and courses, newcomer services and more. Seriously, your local library is a goldmine!

To get a library card, simply show a piece of ID and proof of address (bank statement, bill, etc.). The card is free for all Ottawa residents.

Performing arts

The National Arts Centre and the Shenkman Arts Centre offer amazing programming year-round. Smaller venues and companies also have musical, theatrical, dance and a variety of performances.

Festivals and special events

Ottawa loves hosting festivals, even in winter!

Beloved yearly events include:

• The Gatineau Hot Air Balloon Festival (late August or early September)
• Winterlude (February)
• The Canadian Tulip Festival (May)
• The Ottawa Jazz Festival (June)
• Bluesfest (July)
• CityFolk Festival (September)

Ottawa Festivals lists all the events, there are many more! 

Other major celebrations include Canada Day, Hockey Day, and Capital Pride.

Exploring Ottawa

Landmarks, historic sites and parks

Check out Ottawa Tourism for the full list of interesting places beyond Parliament Hill and the Rideau Canal. 

Don’t miss Gatineau Park (in Quebec), it’s the best place to admire the fall rhapsody in September and October when leaves turn red, orange and yellow. 

Just behind Château Laurier, Major’s Hill Park offers amazing views of Parliament Hill, the Ottawa River and the Rideau Canal locks.

Crossing to the USA

Ottawa is a short one-hour drive from the US border. The two major crossings to New York State are the Ogdensburg-Prescott International Bridge and the Seaway Bridge (Massena Cornwall). If you’re aiming for New York City, keep on driving another eight hours. Otherwise, you can enjoy small communities like Ogdensburg, Alexandria Bay or Massena.

Regardless of your status in Canada and even for a same-day trip, you will need to go through US border control. Check beforehand to see if you need a visa or an ESTA.

For more information about life in Ottawa, check Juliette’s blog, a pvtistes member who has been living in Ottawa for twenty years.